Home Inspection Checklist: What Buyers Need to Know Before They Close
The home inspection is one of the most critical steps in any real estate transaction, yet many buyers walk into it without knowing what to look for or how to use the results. A thorough inspection protects your client from costly surprises and gives them leverage in negotiations. This guide walks you through every major area inspectors cover and what findings actually matter.
Table of Contents
- What a Home Inspection Covers
- Exterior and Foundation
- Roof and Attic
- Electrical Systems
- Plumbing and Water
- HVAC Systems
- Interior Rooms and Finishes
- How to Read the Inspection Report
- Negotiating After the Inspection
- FAQ
What a Home Inspection Covers
A standard home inspection is a visual, non-invasive examination of a property's accessible systems and components. It is not a code compliance inspection or a guarantee — it is a professional snapshot of the home's condition on the day of the inspection.
What inspectors are required to check
Licensed inspectors follow standards of practice set by organizations like InterNACHI or ASHI. At minimum, they must examine:
- Structural components (foundation, framing, floors, walls, ceilings, roof)
- Exterior (siding, windows, doors, grading, drainage)
- Roofing (covering, flashings, gutters)
- Plumbing (supply and drain lines, water heater, fixtures)
- Electrical (service panel, wiring, outlets, smoke detectors)
- HVAC (heating and cooling equipment, ductwork, filters)
- Insulation and ventilation
- Interior (doors, windows, stairs, fireplaces)
What inspectors do NOT check
- Behind walls or under floors
- Pools or septic systems (these require separate specialists)
- Pest infestations (typically a separate report)
- Underground oil tanks or environmental hazards
Exterior and Foundation
Start outside. The exterior gives major clues about long-term maintenance habits and potential structural issues.
Foundation red flags
- Horizontal cracks in block or poured concrete walls (can indicate lateral pressure)
- Stair-step cracks in brick (common but worth monitoring)
- Gaps between foundation and framing
- Water stains or efflorescence (white mineral deposits) suggesting moisture intrusion
Grading and drainage
The ground should slope away from the foundation at a minimum of 6 inches over the first 10 feet. Flat or negative grading directs water toward the basement or crawlspace. This is one of the most commonly overlooked items and one of the cheapest to fix.
Siding and trim
Look for:
- Peeling, cracking, or missing paint
- Rot in wood trim around windows and doors
- Gaps in caulking at penetrations
- Damaged or missing sections of siding
Roof and Attic
Roof replacement is one of the most expensive repairs a homeowner faces — often $10,000–$25,000 depending on size and materials. Understand what you're looking at.
Roof inspection key points
- Age and condition: Asphalt shingles typically last 20–30 years. Ask for documentation of any past replacements.
- Missing or curling shingles: Signs of wear or storm damage
- Flashing: Metal flashing around chimneys, vents, and valleys must be properly sealed
- Gutters and downspouts: Should be secured, free of debris, and direct water at least 4 feet from the foundation
Attic indicators
The attic reveals what the roof does not. Inspectors look for:
- Daylight visible through the roof deck (never acceptable)
- Active leaks or water staining on sheathing
- Adequate insulation depth (R-38 to R-60 recommended in most climates)
- Proper ventilation (soffit and ridge vents)
- Signs of pest activity
Electrical Systems
Electrical deficiencies are common, especially in homes built before 1980. Some are cosmetic; others are fire hazards.
Panel inspection
- Amperage: 100-amp service is minimum; 200-amp is standard for modern homes
- Double-tapped breakers: Two wires on one breaker — a fire risk
- Federal Pacific or Zinsco panels: Known defective brands that should be replaced
- GFCI protection: Required near water sources (kitchens, bathrooms, exterior outlets)
- AFCI breakers: Required in bedrooms in most modern codes
Wiring concerns
- Aluminum wiring (used in some 1960s–70s homes) requires special attention
- Knob-and-tube wiring in older homes is typically not insurable
- Open junction boxes or exposed wiring
Plumbing and Water
Supply lines
- Galvanized steel: Common in pre-1960 homes, prone to corrosion and low pressure
- Polybutylene (PB) pipe: Gray plastic, used 1978–1995, prone to failure and often uninsurable
- Copper or PEX: Both acceptable; PEX is flexible and freeze-resistant
Drain and sewer
A standard home inspection does not include a sewer scope — that is a separate service. For homes over 30 years old with original sewer lines, a sewer scope is strongly recommended. Tree root intrusion and collapsed clay pipes are expensive discoveries post-closing.
Water heater
- Note age (most last 8–12 years)
- Check for rust or corrosion at connections
- Confirm temperature and pressure relief valve is present and functional
HVAC Systems
Heating
- Furnace age and condition (lifespan: 15–25 years)
- Heat exchanger integrity (cracks can allow carbon monoxide to enter living space)
- Filter condition
- Visible ductwork for leaks or disconnections
Cooling
- Condenser unit age and condition
- Refrigerant lines for damage or improper insulation
- Evaporator coil for dirt buildup
- Thermostat function
Interior Rooms and Finishes
Once systems are checked, inspectors move room by room.
Key interior items
- Windows: Foggy double-pane glass indicates seal failure; operation should be smooth
- Doors: Interior and exterior doors should open, close, and latch without force
- Floors: Soft spots can indicate subfloor damage or moisture
- Ceilings: Staining patterns often indicate past or active leaks
- Bathrooms: Tile and grout condition around tub and shower; caulking at floor joints
- Kitchen: Appliance function, dishwasher for leaks under sink, exhaust fan venting to exterior
How to Read the Inspection Report
Inspection reports range from 30 to 100+ pages. Not every item requires action.
Triage items by severity
1. Safety hazards: Electrical deficiencies, gas leaks, carbon monoxide risks — address these first
2. Material defects: Items that affect function or value — roof, HVAC, plumbing failures
3. Maintenance items: Things the seller should have addressed — caulking, filters, minor trim rot
4. Informational notes: Observations with no immediate action required
What to negotiate vs. accept
As a buyer's agent, help clients focus repair requests on items 1 and 2. Asking sellers to fix 40 minor maintenance items rarely works and can derail deals. A repair credit or price reduction is often more effective than a list of demanded repairs.
Negotiating After the Inspection
After reviewing the report, buyers typically have three options (subject to their inspection contingency):
1. Proceed as-is: Accept the property in its current condition
2. Request repairs: Ask the seller to fix specific items before closing
3. Request a credit: Negotiate a price reduction or closing cost credit
4. Terminate: Walk away and receive earnest money back (within contingency period)
Get the full picture on contingency rights in our guide to Real Estate Contingencies Explained.
FAQ
Q: Should buyers attend the home inspection?
A: Yes. Walking through with the inspector allows buyers to ask questions in real time and understand findings in context — which matters when reading a 60-page report later.
Q: How long does a home inspection take?
A: Typically 2–4 hours depending on the home's size and age. Larger or older homes may take longer.
Q: Can a seller refuse to fix inspection items?
A: Yes. Sellers are not obligated to make repairs. The buyer then decides whether to proceed, renegotiate, or terminate within the contingency window.
Q: Is a new construction home still worth inspecting?
A: Absolutely. New builds have defects too — framing issues, missing insulation, improper grading. An independent inspection before closing is always worthwhile.
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